That Not So Little Town Of Bethlehem

The town of Bethlehem

The town of Bethlehem

Jerusalem and Bethlehem are separated by just a couple of kilometers but they feel like a world apart.  These two cities are linked by biblical history but today they are separated by a wall.  Jerusalem is controlled by Israel and Bethlehem is controlled by the Palestinians.  Israel has taken the liberty of building a wall between Bethlehem and Jerusalem and setting up a check point between the two cities.

The wall that separates Jerusalem from Bethlehem

The wall that separates Jerusalem from Bethlehem

So as my wife and I passed unceremoniously through the checkpoint from Jerusalem to Bethlehem we entered a Palestinian controlled city in the West Bank for the first time.  Our tour guide from Israel, Shalom Langer, was not allowed to accompany us on this part of the journey.  Israeli’s are forbidden by their government to enter any Palestinian controlled areas.  Luckily, Shalom had befriended a couple of Palestinian tour guides, Adnan and Nadali who met us on the other side of the wall.

Entering the checkpoint between Jerusalem and Bethlehem

Entering the checkpoint between Jerusalem and Bethlehem

As we drove through the streets of Bethlehem, Adnan proclaimed, “Welcome to that little town of Bethlehem!”  However today, Bethlehem is not that little town with just a few buildings but a city with a population over twenty-five thousand people and has a Muslim majority with a small Palestinian Christian minority.  Prior to planning this trip I had no idea that Bethlehem was primarily muslim as I always thought of Bethlehem as a bastion of Christian symbolism.  Clearly, the infrastructure of Bethlehem was behind that of Jerusalem.  For the first time, I saw the effect that Israeli control has over Palestinian cities.  Tourism drives Bethlehem’s economy and the city did not seem busy at all considering August is a prime time for tourism.

Entrance to the Church of Nativity

Entrance to the Church of Nativity

As Nadali took us through the Church of the Nativity (proposed spot where Jesus was born) I wanted to talk to him about Bethlehem but he didn’t want to talk to much.  Unfortunately, Nadali seemed defeated or maybe just tired as it was the last day of Ramadan and he had been fasting all day.  Although the UN granted Palestine observer state status in 2012, Nadali inferred that this victory does not represent reality.  In his words, ” Make no mistake, Israel controls us.”  The many walls that have been built and checkpoints established by the Israeli’s clearly demonstrate the control they have over many areas in the West Bank.  He also stated that tourism is way down in Bethlehem.  As we strolled through the Church of Nativity, there were very few tourists and there was no line to visit the proposed spot inside the church where Jesus was born.

Proposed spot where Jesus was born inside the Church of Nativity

Proposed spot where Jesus was born inside the Church of Nativity

Nadali stated a few years back, there would usually be a long line to visit this attraction but tourism was way down.  Of course, unrest in nearby Syria and the Arab Spring was not helping the tourism sector in the region.  In addition, the wall and checkpoints built between Jerusalem and Bethlehem doesn’t exactly create an inviting experience for tourists.

Proposed site of the manger

Proposed site of the manger

Although Adnan and Nadali rarely see Shalom, due to restrictions in place by the Israeli government, they have a nice working relationship.  As Nadali stated, “Shalom is a good man,” and I am pretty sure Shalom feels the same way about Adnan and Nadali. It was nice to see the mutual respect that two people, a Palestinian and Israeli, had for one another.  Despite the tension between the two sides, these type of relationships between two individuals gave me a small glimmer of hope that some type of resolution may be achieved in the future.

 

A Day At The Dead Sea

 

Reflection of mountains on the Jordan side of the Dead Sea

Reflection of mountains on the Jordan side of the Dead Sea

After spending a day at the Dead Sea, I would have to say it is one of the more unique experiences I have had while traveling.  There are several things that make the Dead Sea an amazing place.  First it is the lowest point on earth, almost fourteen hundred feet below sea level.

Over 400 meters below sea level

Over 400 meters below sea level

Second, the salinity of the Dead Sea is over thirty-three percent (nine times greater then the ocean), making it inhospitable to any marine life.  Third, it is impossible not to float when you enter the Dead Sea which is what makes it unlike any other body of water I have ever been in.

Enjoying floating in the Dead Sea

Enjoying floating in the Dead Sea

Literally as you wade deeper into the Dead Sea, the hyper-salinity of the water pulls you into a floating position.  You can try to stand up in the water but it is extremely difficult to do so.  It is almost like a gravitational force pulls you back to a floating position.  The hyper-salinity of the water makes any small cut on your body sting so I wouldn’t advice shaving the day you visit the Dead Sea.  But once you settle in and float on your back it is extremely enjoyable to relax and soak in the beautiful scenery.

My wife enjoying reading a newspaper while floating in the Dead Sea

My wife enjoying reading a newspaper while floating in the Dead Sea

That being said, the Dead Sea is not a body of water for much recreation besides floating.  You have to carefully read the warning signs before floating in the Dead Sea.  Under any circumstance, it is not advisable to place your head under water.  Apparently, this guy did not read the warnings.  I witnessed him placing his head under water and almost instantly he realized his mistake.  I can’t imagine how his eyes felt but the anguish on his face certainly gave me an idea.

Don't place your underwater in the Dead Sea

Don’t place your underwater in the Dead Sea

There are no boats on the Dead Sea due to the hyper-salinity and the corrosion that would occur on the undersurface.  In my opinion, the Dead Sea is a true wonder of the world.  However, it is disappearing which is disturbing.  You can see clearly how the water level has continued to decrease over the years as the layers of salt deposits continue to form on its shores.  It main tributary, the Jordan River, has seen water diverted away from it which has continued to decrease the water level of the Dead Sea.

Receding water levels of the Dead Sea

Receding water levels of the Dead Sea

Like any natural wonder, human interests continue to threaten its very existence.  I am very happy that we decided to visit the Dead Sea during our trip to Israel and the Palestinian Territories.  For me, it was the probably the most enjoyable day of our trip as it was a very relaxing place to spend an afternoon. I would consider it a must-do on any trip to this region.

Salt deposits on the rocks of the Dead Sea shore

Salt deposits on the rocks of the Dead Sea shore

 

The mineral rich Dead Sea mud

The mineral rich Dead Sea mud

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Surreal Day Trip To Jerusalem

A view of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives - the sparkling golden dome of the iconic Dome On the Rock

A view of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives – the sparkling golden dome of the iconic Dome On the Rock

During the next part of our trip to Israel and Palestine, we decided to take a day trip to Jerusalem from Tel Aviv.  At just over an hour drive from Tel Aviv, Jerusalem is easily accessible but feels like a different world. The beach culture of Tel Aviv is in stark contrast to the pious feel of the old city of Jerusalem.

A view of the Holy Church of the Sepulchre - proposed site of the crucifixion and burial of Jesus

A view of the Holy Church of the Sepulchre – proposed site of the crucifixion and burial of Jesus

Jerusalem has an amazingly complex history and is the subject of so much controversy which is one reason why this city is so fascinating to me.  Jerusalem serves as the capital of Israel although most of the international community does not recognize this.  Currently, Israel illegally occupies East Jerusalem from the Palestinians according to international law.

Modern day Jerusalem -An outdoor walking mall just adjacent to the old city

Modern day Jerusalem – An outdoor walking mall just adjacent to the old city

Political tensions aside, Jerusalem is without doubt, the holiest city in the world.  You can feel the religious overtones at just about any point while walking inside the walls of the old city.  Jerusalem is the holiest city in the Jewish and Christian faiths and the third most holy city for Muslims after Mecca and Medina.

The Western (Wailing) Wall - a holy site for Jews just adjacent to the Temple Mount

The Western (Wailing) Wall – a holy site for Jews just adjacent to the Temple Mount

This intersection of three religions is awe-inspiring to witness.  Within the span of less then an hour, I witnessed a Bat Mitzvah at the Western Wall, a call to Prayer for Muslims to a mosque in the Temple Mount during the holy month of Ramadan, and witnessed Christian pilgrims walking the steps of Jesus along the Via Dolorosa toward the Holy Church of the Sepulcher.

One of the many Bat Mitzvahs near the Western Wall

One of the many Bat Mitzvahs near the Western Wall

To see so many people completely moved and in touch with their deeper spiritual side, whether they were Jews, Christians, or Muslims, was truly amazing.  Even as someone who is not extremely religious, I couldn’t help but feel a deeper spiritual sense while walking around Jerusalem.  There is no other place in the world where this intersection of faith is visible on such a macroscopic level.

Site where the body of Jesus was cleansed in the Holy Church of the Sepulchre

Site where the body of Jesus was cleansed in the Holy Church of the Sepulchre

Jerusalem is a city that provides so many great travel memories. Seeing the iconic golden dome on the Dome Of The Rock and the rest of the old city of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives was a moment that I will never forget.  Standing among the olive trees in the Garden of Gethsemane was about as close as you can get to re-tracing the steps of Jesus.   The ancient history, the religion, the political tension and the shear beauty make Jerusalem a transcendent travel experience, one that I will cherish for years to come.

The Garden of Gethsemane - spot where Jesus and his disciples prayed the night before his crucifixion

The Garden of Gethsemane – spot where Jesus and his disciples prayed the night before his crucifixion

 

Other pictures from Jerusalem:

Placing a stone on the grave of Oskar Schindler at Mount Zion

Placing a stone on the grave of Oskar Schindler at Mount Zion

The Dome on the Rock - Muslim holy site where Muhammad ascended to heaven.  For Jews, the place where Abraham prepared to sacrifice his son, Isaac.

The Dome on the Rock – Muslim holy site where Muhammad ascended to heaven. For Jews, the place where Abraham prepared to sacrifice his son, Isaac.

Proposed site of the crucifixion in the Holy Church of the Sepulchre

Proposed site of the crucifixion in the Holy Church of the Sepulchre